Wednesday, May 20, 2026

Weeding

 I finally got around to some weeding today.  I weeded the Cole Crop bed in preparation for mulching it with shredded leaves.  The Cabbages are beginning to form heads and the Romaine Lettuces at each corner are of a useful size with three or four smaller ones interspersed for later harvest.


Next I need to weed the Blackberry bed and mulch that too.  The thornless Black Raspberry plant finally arrived to join the thornless Blackberries that I planted last fall.


My Tickled Pink red grape vine is finally putting out some leaves thanks to those two days of hot weather.  The  white grape is alive and has tiny green buds on it but still no leaves.


I have begun prepping the bed for the Tomato Plants but will wait until this weekend to plant them.  I have two Perpetuo variegated Basil plants on the end, and Candy onions along the sides.  I have seeded more Candy onions for a later crop.


The first and second plantings of peas need to be weeded also.  Those are not all lettuce seedlings along the sides.


Many Peppers and Tomatoes still to plant and distribute and some experimental Marigold cuttings.


I seeded Cucumbers and Summer Squash inside and placed them under a grow light since everything is still set up in the workshop.  As soon as the cotyledons appear I will relocate them to the cold frame to grow in the sunshine.


Laster yesterday afternoon when I wend out to close down the cold frame I noticed that one of my transplanted Coleus had snapped, maybe in the wind.  I didn't notice any damage as I was planting.  I brought the "cutting" inside and put it in water to watch it root.  I can always use one more Coleus...



Tuesday, May 19, 2026

Bringing Dahlias Out of Storage and Planting

 This is one of those projects that can drag out over days or weeks.  In the past, I have planted all of my Dahlia tubers in one fell swoop.  That's no fun.  That's a lot of work.  This time I have stretched it out over several stages and days and I'm not done yet.  And I have found it to be very enjoyable.  I also stored the Dahlia tubers in more than one place in more than one way.  For several years now I have stored them in deep tubs with coarse Vermiculite either in the workshop or the big garage with a thermometer sensor to ensure that the temperature stays between 45F and 50F.  I am still doing that, but I am also experimenting with some other methods and locations.  One of the other possible locations is our basement.  The basement is "unheated" except for the furnace being physically located there.  It stays about 65F to 68F all year 'round.  I have seen on the Facebook Dahlia group that other people have successfully stored in these temperatures as long as it is dark, humid enough, and constant.


Last year I wrapped a spare tuber in Saran Wrap and stuck it in a basement cupboard and it did just fine.  It did not dry out, and it sprouted about the same amount as Dahlias stored in other conditions.  This year I stored quite a few tubers in the basement.  I wrapped some in Saran Wrap and put the rest in shoebox containers with coarse Vermiculite.  I tucked them all in a corner against the rubblestone wall beside the pantry cupboard where they would be humid and be as far as possible from the furnace.  This is the same place that I store my potatoes.  And they all kept just fine.


The tubers closest to the surface sprouted a little.  The tubers wrapped in Saran Wrap also sprouted just a little and they stayed nice and firm.  The only thing with the Saran Wrap method is that you have to trim them down to single tubers.  You cannot properly wrap an irregular clump.


The tubers stored in a dark corner in the Garage at a constant 50F sprouted the same amount.


I have several different planting beds for the Dahlias.  My main bed is rectangular, and to ensure that every plant gets enough sun exposure I have to carefully plan their locations by height.  The tallest ones have to go in the Northwest corner.  I have highlighted my layout in grayscale with the tallest being the lightest gray and the shortest being the darkest gray. Sometimes, I know a varieties growing habit is not going to be as tall or vigorous as the internet reports, and I adjust their location.


It is really easy to get mixed up when planting a grid of tubers.  Years ago a friend asked me "when you plant your tulip bulbs, how to you remember where you planted the bulbs as you are planting?"  Well there are two schools of thought.  Either you lay out your bulbs first and then dig a hole under each one.  Or you dig all of your holes and don't fill them in until you have them all dug.  ...and he was an engineer!  I have struggled to figure out the best way to get a neat grid of Dahlias in the ground.  It doesn't work well to put support stakes in at a later date because you risk piercing the tuber with the stake.  So this year I carefully laid out string lines, measured, and placed the first stake for each tuber.  I then wrote out tags for each variety and placed them on the stake.  Then all I had to do was plant each tuber on the east side of its designated stake.


The single tubers are easy to plant.


Some of the larger clumps are not so easy.  Each Dahlia tuber should be covered with 4 to 6 inches of soil.  In the past, I have occasionally had Dahlia plants that would wilt every day when they were a foot or two tall.  Eventually, the hair roots would catch up and keep the plant looking fresh all day.  Each time I dug one of these up at the end of the season, I found that they were planted too shallow.  There was not enough soil to protect the tuber from the heat of the sun.  Once the whole bed grew in and provided some shade for the soil, they would be OK.  But you risk losing the tub to too much water as you try to keep it from wilting.  If this starts to happen to one of your Dahlia plants it would be better to throw a mound of soil on top of it and up the stem to attempt to bury it to a safe depth.  **see note below regarding "hilling" like potatoes....


As I plant, I add a second and maybe even a third stake depending on the variety.  They may not be as straight as I'd like, but a safe location is marked and I can drill a straighter hole later.


After the tubers are all planted, I can plant the border plants - my Marigolds and Zinnias.  At first I keep them covered to slow down casual nibblers and curious diggers.


I am very pleased with the orange Profusion Zinnias.  Most of the flowers have dark highlights.  Some people may complain that they are not a pure, even color, but I really like it.


They will look great along side my carefully curated palette of copper, bronze and peach Dahlias.

I got most of the pink and purple bed planted on a hot sunny day.  I decided to wait on the full sized plants that I "woke up" in a tray of soil.  They hung out in the protection of the cold frame until the 90F and windy days passed and then came out of hiding this afternoon.  The one I did plant early I protected with a trash can.  In fact, when I finished planting the Marigolds and Zinnias on this side such a stiff, hot wind kicked up that I put trash cans over them too because they immediately looked wind blown.


I finished planting this bed this afternoon, bringing the sprouted tubers out and planting them as I would any other potted plant.  You can bury the stem quite deeply to support it, and, apparently, according to the Dahlia Growers Facebook page, the plant will send out additional tubers along the stem at the buried leaf nodes. Some people actually hill them like potatoes.  None of mine really need to be supported by a mound, but if it comes to that I will not hesitate to try it.


Now all that remains to plant are my Dahlias started from seed, both this year's plants, and last year's stored tubers.  I may even place some of these randomly in the landscaping for annual color.  This time of year my To-Do List every day is all plant...plant...plant.  Other chores, like weed....weed...weed, keep getting pushed to the bottom.   We are now expecting a week of cooler, wetter weather which will be better for transplanting my tomatoes and pepper plants than 90F (32C) and windy.  Today I seeded sweet corn and began warming the bed for pole beans.

a beautiful Aquilegia Songbird Blue Jay is flowering

Tuesday, May 12, 2026

Hardening Off

 This morning we had a Freeze.  A Frost occurs when the air temperature is 32F-36F (0C-2C).  A Freeze is anything below 32F.  This morning it was around 28F (-2C).  The 10 day forecast has warmer night time temperatures so it is time to start moving my more tender Pepper, Tomato and Coleus plants out into the cold frame.



Hardening off is the process of getting plants grown indoors under a grow light accustomed to cooler temperatures, wind stress and most importantly sun.  I keep the workshop under 70F (21C) so they are used to more mild temperatures, but sudden extreme heat would affect them.  I keep fans on my seedlings so actual wind is not such a big deal.  Sunburn is the most damaging problem.  

The accepted program is to bring seedlings out for an hour each day, increasing by an hour each day until they can be out all day.  Then they can be transplanted  That process takes at least a week. You already know how "lazy" I am about hardening off the Cole Crops.  I have a shortcut for hardening off the rest of my plants too.  I am blessed with this cold frame.  The polycarbonate panels transmit only 80% of sunlight preventing sunburn.  If I bring the plants out to the cold frame for a week, they can then go from the cold frame directly out to the garden without sunburning.


I have had Marigolds, Zinnias and Dahlias out here for a week.  They have weathered several frosts out here because the cold frame generally stays about 10 degrees warmer than the night time temperature.  Now that we have little risk of frost for the next 10 days they can go out in the garden.  I am not going to jump the gun and plant them out yet.  I moved them out to the raised bed garden, which is warmer anyway because of all of the gravel, where they will be protected from critters.  They can get used to overhead watering, and more wind and direct sun before they get transplanted.  I remember one year I planted out four dozen Marigolds, and we got a frost a few days later.  I had to cover 48 individual plants.  With pots mostly.  With a rock on top of each pot to keep it from blowing away.  I'm not doing that again.  Last year I had most of my vegetables either in the ground or potted up into larger containers, when we got  days of cold rain.  I'm not doing that again either.

White Marigolds and Profusion Zinnias

I am really looking forward to planting these out.  Usually when I finally get out to the local greenhouses to pick up what I have not grown, I am tempted to buy more big, beautiful annuals.  Not this year.  My annuals are looking amazing.

Dahlias from seeds (left) and a tray of mail order Perennials

There is no sense in taking unnecessary risks.  I pinned some frost cloth over them.  This cloth blocks 50% of sunlight.  If I keep them covered all day that would actually move them backwards in the hardening off process.  I will just put it on in the evenings.


Now I have room to move more tender annuals from the grow lights to the cold frame.  My Tomatoes are coming out and my Coleus cuttings.  Coleus is very sensitive to cold.  I didn't want to knowingly expose them to frost.  


These El Brighto Coleus are from four plants I bought mail order back in 2024.  These are a Proven Winners variety that are impossible to find locally. I took cuttings and over wintered them from 2024 to 2025.  Then last fall I took more cuttings.  I lose a few cuttings each winter, but I have enough for what I want to do with these and this fall I will probably take cuttings again.  I was planning to order in a few more of their varieties this year, but I don't really have any other spots that I want to use Coleus right now.  I just can't lose my stock, so I have a spot where they will work.

Today I also started putting out my Dahlia tubers. Its a big project and I am easing myself into it. We are going to have a couple of days of rain, but I'll get back to that project later this week.

Friday, May 8, 2026

Transplanting Peppers

 Yesterday I started transplanting Peppers.  I am using PRO-MIX Organic Vegetable & Herb Mix which I have used for several years.  I prefer the compressed bales because they are dry to start with.  Last year I bought the smaller bags and the soil was wet right out of the bag.  This year I am finding that the mix is again holding quite a bit of moisture.  When I transplanted the Tomatoes the other day I added both Perlite (to improve drainage) and Espoma Bio-Tone Fertilizer.  I did the same for the Peppers.  I need the soil to dry out at least in 48 hours with a fan.  The added Perlite seems to be helping with the Tomatoes.  When I bump up from the cells I go to 3.5" pots.  I have a lot of 4" pots and only a few 3.5" accumulated from buying plants over the years.  The 4" take up too much space and too much soil so I purchased 3.5" to round out what I already had. With that size you can fit 18 plants instead of only 15 in a 1020 tray 


I planted six different varieties of Ornamental peppers and some Hot Peppers that I use for pickling.  I may as well buy Bell Peppers, because they are easy to find and ornamentals are impossible.  I got two to four specimens of each variety plus some spares.


These are the spares.


I potted them up too and kicked them out in the cold frame to fend for themselves.


The Durango Marigolds shot right up.  I planted Red (a "red" Marigold is really deep, burnt Orange), Yellow and Bolero which is Yellow tipped with Red.  I get really tired of plain Orange Marigolds.  It seems like every seed mix gets more than it's share of Orange so I mix my own.


The Cole Crops are thriving in the cool, wet weather.


And so are the Peas

1st and 2nd planted rows

Direct Sown Lettuce

3rd and 4th plantings of Peas


My Strawberry bed is amazing this year!  They are apparently loving the cooler weather and blooming their heads off!  This end of the bed is my favorite, dependable June bearing plants called Honeoye in their second full year (planted fall of 2023) and the far end is Day Neutral variety called Seascape which should produce all summer.  I ordered and planted the Seascape last spring.  Technically this is their second year but the bare root plants were actually pretty pitiful when they arrived and didn't really root in and begin growing until last fall.  


Now all I have to do is protect the berries from the slugs and the Chipmunks.

Wednesday, May 6, 2026

The Waiting Place

 I have started moving trays out to the cold frame.  The Waiting Place.  In a cooler, less lighted environment, their growth will slow and they will have to hang out there until better weather comes.

Marigolds

I am so proud of my tray of white Marigolds and my Profusion Zinnias.  A commercial grower couldn't do any better.  I also have my Dahlias grown from seed in the cold frame.  This frees up space under the grow light.

Zinnias

We have a 10 day forecast of cool, gloomy weather. The lower graph is cloud cover.  I wouldn't mind the rain if it would clear up after and give us a little ray of sunshine.


wunderground.com


Moving three trays out into the cold frame frees up space under the new grow lights for some of the second string plants.  A few days after their rotten FedEx ordeal, the Romence annuals are putting out some blooms.  But the first thing I see when I walk through the door is the baby tomato on the Orange Hat micro tomatoes.


The new Dahlia tubers that are being "woken up" in a tray of soil are doing well.  I even tried pinching one back and rooting the sprout.  I have a plastic bag over the pot as a make-shift humidity dome.


The past few years I have direct sown Durango Marigolds at the feet of the pole beans.  I may as well start them indoors on a heat mat.  When I transplant them into cells they can go out into the cold frame.


My Ornamental Peppers could stand some leg room.  I need to transplant them into 3.5" pots.  This will require some culling as I have 36 cells and the tray will only hold 18 pots.  Okay, I seeded some extra just in case and at this point it is time to let some go.  What I will probably do is plant into two trays and one will stay under grow lights and one tray will go out to the cold frame to continue their role as spares.

Peppers

The Indeterminate Tomatoes are doing well.  Probably no need to bump them up to larger pots.  If they start to get root bound that will just slow their growth until they can go outside,


And outside, the Strawberry plants are blooming their heads off.


As far as I can tell, there is still at least a week until the Dahlia tubers can go out into the bed and two weeks until the Tomatoes and Peppers can go out to the Cold Frame to begin the hardening off process.